LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W ’14: ROKSANDA ILINCIC
Luke Hersheson for Roksanda Ilincic at The Old Sorting Office, High Holborn. Elevated above New Oxford Street, Roksanda Ilincic hosted a futuristic performance in blue, navy and powder. Her colour palette was a wash of watercolors in collision with oxblood furs and heavy gold metallics. Neons scathed the outskirts of bags and collar lines, and flashed on the soles of pointy brogues that wound between a set of scaffold and warped paneling. As strobe lighting continued to strike this soft collection of midi-skirts and heavy swing coats an unsettling line between feminism and stark futurism evolved. Swatches of lilacs and storm-grey in furs and shearling were mismatched to form oversized coats and deconstructed silhouettes for A/W ’14. Luke Hersheson constructed DIY ponytails paired with pastel grosgrain bands to simulate the girly and graceful side of the collection. He continued to toy with the concept of everyday objects whilst revisiting accessories and their relationship with hair. Hair was kept simple, “well put together, but not over-done” to represent a girl who cares about what she looks like without putting in the effort. To reflect this, the ponytail was tied on the occipital bone after being loosely combed with fingers. To avoid a polished neatness, hair was almost treated with little care as it was pulled back out of the band to form volume at the crown. Framing the face, fly aways were encouraged and teased to underline an undone texture. To secure a rougher texture, hair was doused in L’oreal Professionnel Infinium Hairspray to almost ‘dirty’ softer hair and a small amount of Liss Control and Tecni Art were applied to the lengths of the ponytail to smooth any unwanted bumps and rifts. This style can be received as a safety net as it plays on very wearable ideas. So you need not preen to perfection because this perfectly undone ponytail resembles an organic and well lived in style.