LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W ’14: JONATHAN SAUNDERS
Luke Hersheson for Jonathan Saunders at Tate Britain. Situated within an abundance of art and creativity Jonathan Saunders matched his surroundings with a theatrical showcase for A/W14. Although The Tate was littered with objects of no perceived value, fuzzing TV sets and antiquated amps were the perfect installation to compliment an experimental collection. With conviction, a composition of undiluted colour and fearless texture created a hybrid collection of hand-knitted sweaters and quilted leather bombers. We saw broad sweeping coats paired with delicate bias-cut dresses that were swamped in bands of destructive colour. Despite the frenetic energy of the runway, austerity ran parallel with the overall themes of decadence and debauchery. Luke Hersheson played with the idea of doll-like perfection whilst creating glossy and plasticized waves. Like true mannequins, models were given glass-like complexions while their hair hardened under product and gel. L’Oreal Profesionnel Tecni Art Gloss Control and A-Head Glue were applied generously to each head, whilst stylists molded the hair swiftly into a strict 20’s inspired finger wave. Spritzing water over the glue produced a pliable texture that allowed the waves to be contoured before setting in place and fixing in skull-hugging ponytails. This angular style exaggerates the silhouette whilst hugging the face in a boyish manner. Luke said: “the finger waves at the front give it a slight 1920’s feel, but the sleek ponytail makes the entire look feel very contemporary.” The over-all finish was sophisticated but evidently manufactured.