JONATHAN SAUNDERS
Location: The British Museum
This delicate collection in blue, white and nut-brown was juxtaposed against the chilly enormity of The British Museum to depict the turn of the spring season. Barely-there fabrics dusted with sheer chiffon and angular prints represented tactile folds of paper, while tunic tops and dresses were laced together with little more than gauzy strings.
As the collection continued to stalk the great hall, new and progressive textures were revealed from tissue-like waifs to fully adorned tops and appliqued tailoring. Work-wear pieces such as crisp shirts and jackets were shaped with over-sized bows, until simple embellishments were completely morphed by 3-D abstract shapes. Petite pencil skirts and cigarette trousers simplified voluminous silhouettes whilst the quirky colour palette that bordered on sickly seventies created a subversive edge. The girly but graphic finish had a strong rebellious appeal.
Hair zigzagged in haphazardous 2-D waves to create an illusionary effect, as layers of different textures snaked over each model’s head revisiting the idea of tactile materials. Anything but romantic, this ‘S’ shaped wave is coined texture of the season; “it’s one you want to achieve when you braid your hair overnight but never get quite right” said Luke.
Hair was prepped with L’Oreal Professionnel Tecni.Art Constructor to ensure the shape would hold, whilst the zigzag effect was the result of piecing equal strands through a flat iron - an arduous and heated affair!
Key product: L’Oreal Professionnel Tecni.Art Constructor.
Most over-used term: Flaves (meaning waves) or Furls (for curls).
