Van der Ham’s collection of mixed fabrics and conflicting textures thread down the runway against the blank canvas of Topshop Show Space. Despite the stark surroundings, layers of sheer silk in pastel hues illuminated the walls and embodied a timeless femininity. Van der Ham’s signature collage style was ever present throughout this investigation of new materials and incredible textures. Dresses were layered with metallic embellishments, asymmetric hemlines and shredded edges for a modern and romantic twist. The ability to mix media has resulted in a beautiful collection that creatively captures the freshness of springtime.
Extravagant accessories were not spared; in fact they were the standout feature! Van der Ham created round-mirrored sunglasses with scalloped ‘eyelash’ embossing in collaboration with eyewear brand Lunettes Kollektion. Truthfully the van der Ham woman likes lots of pretty things in shiny prints!
“Michael’s clothes are so detailed, you just want to throw the hair up in a messy bun,” said Luke, matching a ‘DIY’ bun to the rougher edge of the collection. Running with the concept of material and textures, hair was muted to emphasize the beauty of both model and clothing.
So how do you re-create the look? Just throw it up literally!
A matte, lived-in texture was created using L'Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Fresh Dust. Think shower hair when effortlessly pulling the lengths back with your fingers and tying in a messy bun level with the occipital bone. Tecni Art Air Fix Spray manages flyaways, let them reign for an ethereal and romantic texture!
The key product: L’Oreal Professionnel Tecni.Art Fresh Dust
Roksanda Ilincic proved that it’s definitely cool to clash in SS’15. Hyper-neon colours such as hot pink and electric blue outlined her signature asymmetric cuts and oversized silhouettes that stood in plush folds. The collection revealed sporty shapes in bright neoprene and geometric detail, resembling modern sculptures swamped in button-less coats. Despite the impactful colour palette everything was reduced to minimalism and simple primary shapes.
Graphic and modern minimalism continued from the clothes to model’s hair as Luke created a ‘natural’ looking straight. Starting from a deep side parting hair was pulled forward from the crown to form a graphic ‘faux fringe’. Lengths were then tucked behind both ears to hang in straight and clean lines.
The Key Products: L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni ART Pli; Tecni ART Air Fix
This delicate collection in blue, white and nut-brown was juxtaposed against the chilly enormity of The British Museum to depict the turn of the spring season. Barely-there fabrics dusted with sheer chiffon and angular prints represented tactile folds of paper, while tunic tops and dresses were laced together with little more than gauzy strings.
As the collection continued to stalk the great hall, new and progressive textures were revealed from tissue-like waifs to fully adorned tops and appliqued tailoring. Work-wear pieces such as crisp shirts and jackets were shaped with over-sized bows, until simple embellishments were completely morphed by 3-D abstract shapes. Petite pencil skirts and cigarette trousers simplified voluminous silhouettes whilst the quirky colour palette that bordered on sickly seventies created a subversive edge. The girly but graphic finish had a strong rebellious appeal.
Hair zigzagged in haphazardous 2-D waves to create an illusionary effect, as layers of different textures snaked over each model’s head revisiting the idea of tactile materials. Anything but romantic, this ‘S’ shaped wave is coined texture of the season; “it’s one you want to achieve when you braid your hair overnight but never get quite right” said Luke.
Hair was prepped with L’Oreal Professionnel Tecni.Art Constructor to ensure the shape would hold, whilst the zigzag effect was the result of piecing equal strands through a flat iron - an arduous and heated affair!
The key product: L’Oreal Professionnel Tecni.Art Constructor.
Most over-used term: Flaves (meaning waves) or Furls (for curls).
Watch the tutorial here.
Location: The Royal Opera House
Under the impressive glass atrium of London’s Royal Opera House, DAKS SS15 opened with billowing chiffon against soft sounds of a piano solo. Shades of grey mist, silver blue and lilac chiffon appeared as a metallic overlay against sharp cigarette pants and crisp tailoring. Models were elegantly poised with feather-trimmed cuffs and embellished chokers to fit a balletic silhouette, framing this ‘demure’ collection. But despite the clouds of pearlescent greys, starchy white shirts paid homage to the 50’s Teddy boy style.
Luke Hersheson sought a punk aesthetic when working hair into a strictly untraditional chignon. It began as a rockabilly quiff set with an unusual square front. This structure carried the rest of the look as hair was then twisted and knotted across the back of the head. Luke explained: “it’s not a chignon or a plait… It’s something less thought-out, simply twisted and pinned up in place.”
Despite volumes of Air Fix spray, hair appeared super soft as flyaways were encouraged. The look was not kept too clean to heighten the subtle boyish references amongst an otherwise feminine collection.
Key products: L’Oreal Professionnel Techni.ART Air Fix & L’Oreal Professionnel Tecni.ART Mousse